Kokkari: Contemporary Greek Flavors by Erik Cosselmon

By Erik Cosselmon

Conventional kinfolk recipes and the traditional Hellenic customized of welcoming the stranger as a chum identified in Greece as philoxenia have encouraged the uniquely welcoming atmosphere of Kokkari eating place in San Francisco. an entire spring lamb spit-roasting over an open fireplace greets diners, and the menu bargains accepted dishes like dolmades, avgolemono soup, and lamb moussaka in addition to more odd Greek dishes corresponding to deep fried smelt, watermelon and feta salad, and grilled octopus. via its use of clean seasonal parts, Kokkari brings a sophisticated, cosmopolitan sensibility to a cherished Mediterranean culinary culture. Its vendors and cooks are proud to have ushered in a brand new period of appreciation for bright Greek flavors. Now they invite you to attempt a few of their favourite dishes at domestic, and want you a Greek bon appetit: kali orexi!

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There are good grounds for believing that at one time the "brotherhoods" also tended to live in contiguous areas, and that their centers and altars were located where large numbers of their members were concentrated. 16 At all events, everyone knew almost everyone else in the phratria; everyone had his place, and the cult community had a number of practical functions (in fact the polis as a whole was also seen as constituting a cult community). . What applies to the phratriai applies also to some extent to tbe dlVl- 58 PREHISTORY AND EMERGENCE OF GREEK DEMOCRACY sions above and below it.

There is no evidence of the relation between the two councils. We do not know what other new institutions Cleisthenes may have set up, nor is it certain whether the strange manner in which the Council of 500 was later said to have been constituted and to have functioned goes back to Cleisthenes. 5 It is hard to see how a reform of the administrative structure of the community and the creation-or reconstitution-of an advisory body, in competition with the old council of nobles, can have been so significant as to furnish the necessary conditions for the emergence of democracy.

We do not know to what extent a redistribution of authority or a restriction of the rights of the Areopagus would have been conceivable at this period. However, Cleisthenes and his supporters clearly did not believe that they could attain their objective by such measures-or, for that matter, by traditional constitutional means. They sought to reach it by a quite different route, one that to us seems somewhat strange. We will consider the reasons presently. In this context we can make only one more firm observation: whatever the current power relations may have been, it was only in exceptional cases that the will and authority of the people could make themselves felt in the prevailing circumstances.

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